A Prized Life

2011-08-06T16:00:00.000-04:00

What I did for my Summer Vacation. DAY SIX.

Saturday, 8/6
Went swimming! Went swimming in the salt-water pool by the sea, which is kept at 30 degrees celcius. So warm! It was great. Did 40 laps. Then we did some shopping after Simon's nap and lunch and then I took Simon back to the pool. They have a large little pool for babies/children with two jacuzzi's in it (same temp as the rest of the pool, but jets of bubbles). There is also an area where the water goes in a current so you can swim with (or against) the current. No part of the pool is very deep. There's another part with a fountain that you can swim under. Really fantastic! But the clerk was a real JERK! (Oh well, what are ya gonna do?…There's always someone…) Simon loved it! What's interesting is that after about 1/2 hour exactly he got out of the pool, took me by the hand towards the exit and was ready to go!

2011-08-05T15:56:00.000-04:00

What I did for my Summer Vacation. DAY FIVE.

Friday, 8/5
Walked into town with the girls for them to get some candy and bought Simon a little yellow rainjacket. Walked through a little "Brocante" (flea market). The girls said their "g/bye's" and Simon took his nap. When he woke we went to the Croix's for some macaroons and water. Simon ran around their yard and Thierry tried to play ball with him. Came back home and Christiane was going to give Simon dinner while E took me to my horse-back riding "promenade." Simon was hysterical as he was being put in the chair. :(((((( Christiane kept trying to block him from me and saying "leave, leave, leave" (in French). I gave him a kiss anyways and we left.

Went HORSE-BACK RIDING!!!! I was nervous, but I did good! :)))))) First I was going to ride "Galopin," which means "little devil" (as in "you little devil" when you say that to a child who's being cute but mischievous) but then because the other people who were going to go riding didn't show up, it was just me and the guide--so they put me on a different horse.

This is a really different experience than in the United States! First, they told me to go find my own helmut (bombe) among the rack of helmets in the middle of the stalls. Then they told me to go get my horse and bring him into the menege (the rinding ring). What?!?!!!! So I went back and said, (in French), I'm supposed to go do this tout seule? I'm a little nervous to do that." So a girl got the horse out of the stall and then I lead Galopin from the stables into the menage. The girl helped me mount him. Then they told me there would be a horse change. So I just waited in the ring and they brought me Papyrus. So then I mounted Papyrus and we did one turn in the ring, to get comfortable and then off we were! (I would've liked a few more turns in the ring…but oh well).

The only kind of saddle they have in France is an English saddle. The trail we took took us across two roads, down sandy paths, up through hills, between fields, around houses, over driveways, down muddy paths, into a forest, under a canopy of branches/trees, over a little stream, over a little one-person foot path, around in the forest, past a woman re-staining a wooden-beam fence, up and down and around a rocky, dirt, muddy path in the woods, around next to a field where Papyrus stopped to "neigh! neigh!" at some other horses in the field and of course, stopping a few times to grab leaves from trees to eat.

This was nervewraking and I couldn't stop him from doing it. What was also VERY nervewraking was the guide's horse, which was a beautiful dappled dark grey horse named Nicolas, kept rearing up on his hind legs "because he doesn't like stones or rocks." What?! Geesh. I was so nervous my horse would end up doing the same. Thankfully he didn't.

The guide had us trotting a lot more than I thought we would do. (Which was great, but which i also wasn't really ready for and which I need more lessons on b/c I could "post" but the stirrups were banging hard against the front of my ankle b/c my my feet kept slipping forward instead of staying with the heels down, as they should be. He also told me I should stand up when the horse is trying to go up some of the very steep hills, but he didn't tell me what to hang onto b/c if i held onto the reins I would end up pulling the horse backwards (or on his hind legs). So I did a combo of grabbing his mane and the saddle. He also didn't tell me what to do when going down hills, so I leaned back in the saddle and grabbed onto the back of the saddle.

The other major difference (other than the guide not being talkative, not telling you pointers on what you should be doing, etc.) is that the trail is TREACHEROUS! I don't mean the train in itself is treacherous, but the way it is maintained. There are big, thick branches that stick out into the trail; there are branches that hang too low; there are branches that have been cut, but not short enough; there are branches that have not been cut at all. If you didn't pay attention to what was ahead of you at all times you could get seriously knocked in the throat, head or eye by a branch. These were not small, bendy branches. These were thick, stout branches. There were parts that are so muddy that the horses were slipping down the hill. There were parts that were so rocky the horses hooves tripped on the rocks or slipped on the boulders.

Other than that, it was great! :)))) I want to go back and take lessons now. No more promenade…too scary, really. I prefer all the jaunts and stuff but to be on better terrain.

2011-08-02T15:53:00.001-04:00

What I did for my Summer Vacation. DAYS TWO, THREE AND FOUR.

Tuesday, 8/2
E inflated the pool. Simon's first day at the beach. He LOVES it. He wanted to bring his stroller and he went running on the sand with his stroller (with me helping him over the sand) directly into the water. He spent the afternoon (well, about 1/2 hour or so) running in and out of the water with the stroller, collecting seaweed and everything. Then he played in the sand (wet and dry) with E and the girls (and me). Brought back some sand for the blow-up pool.

Wednesday, 8/3
Went to the beach a 2nd time. So much warmer and we went earlier (2pm instead of 4pm). Much better! Brought back more sand for the blow-up pool.

Thursday, 8/4
Rained all night. I tried to cover the sand the night before with a bucket, but it didn't do anything. Took the sand out and filled it with water when it stopped raining. Rained all day. Played poker with the girls. (They taught me how). The Croix's came over to visit for the apero so they got to see (meet?) Simon and visit with the girls (say g/b to them). Simon got a little heat-rash of sorts.

2011-08-01T15:29:00.000-04:00

What I did for my Summer Vacation

Monday, August 1st we took a taxi to the Montparnasse Train Station. Went to the Columbus Cafe and asked for a decaf coffee and 2 croissants. "Pas de decaf." [WHAT?! This is a COFFEE BAR AND THERE IS NO DECAF?????!!! WTF!!!!????] Simon chose a toy at the "presse" and pushed his stroller around. We got on the train and were able to sit all four together (the three of us). Simon wanted to just walk up and down the cars with me. Then fell asleep for 1 1/2 hours. Five minutes before we arrived he found another little girl of 2 years old who had a teletubbie doll. She tried to give kisses with it but he was scared at first. Then the two of them were jumping on the seats together, holding on to them, facing the seats. Then he wanted the teletubbie doll and was upset when he couldn't get it.

Simon has fun with his cousins. Did a little shopping at the Super U. (got him a little plastic blow-up pool, which we put sand in from the beach, then we filled the pool with water, which is what's in there now).

Dinner: Crepes. Christiane makes crepes for everyone, which is really nice. But then when it's time for her to sit down Anne asks Lucie to leave the table. Just before this I was trying to say something and someone/everyone started talking over me. I made a "hey! I'm talkin' here" gesture/phrase and everyone just looked at me (or not) and said, "too bad, the Joubeaud way is whoever's loudest wins."
-- I'm sorry but that is rude. Okay, sure, "it's a French way of talking." You know what? To me, it's just rude. And I guess that means the French are rude!

2011-07-20T01:08:00.000-04:00

How I Now Handle Paying

Tired of constantly being pushed out of the way by customers after me in a line, I now have a new technique for how I pay for my goods at the grocery store. This works as well (sometimes) in the bakery. Before: I would pay for my groceries and then scramble to put them in the bags. This was not efficient because after I paid, the clerk would begin scanning the next customer's groceries and push them off the scanner. My groceries would then begin to be mixed up with the other customers. The other customer always (being French) would have begun packing their groceries on top of mine and thus reaching over me, standing too close to me, moving me and my groceries out of the way.

Now: I let the cashier scan all my items and I begin (when I am ready) to put my groceries in my bags. I don't bring out my wallet until I've packed all my items. Then I bring out my wallet and pay. Now I get to pack my groceries with no rush (well, other than all the other customers huffing and puffing down the line) and pay without being frazzled.

Much better!

N.B. Sometimes this doesn't work at the bakery where if I'm too slow getting my money out (which seems to be the usual case) the baker will take the next customer's order and their money before me, which seems to be confusing two orders at once, but apparently the French bakers are a very efficient lot and can handle several orders and multiple money exchanges at once. (Except for the times when they get my orders wrong!)

2011-07-18T00:58:00.000-04:00

Leaving Babies in a Car

This post I cannot even believe is one I will be writing. And yet, Emmanuel tells me every year the police arrest people who leave their babies in cars while they go into nightclubs (sometimes even in Winter). :(((( This makes me so sad and so angry!

The same day I was walking home and near got my ankles clipped by a driver (See post on Bad French Drivers), I walked about 50 feet and passed two clinics. I heard a sound of a child crying. Not unusual because there are lots of children in this neighborhood and the French rarely seem to tend to a crying child. (I know I am grossly overstepping and sterotyping, but this is my blog and these are all just my personal unfounded opinions!)

However, I looked trying to find where the child was because there was no one else on the street. I noticed a navy blue BMW station wagon. Inside, on the back seat were two baby car seats. With two babies in them! One was looking out the window with his hand on his face as if to say, "Hmmm, my sister here is bawling her head off but I'll just look outside and try to ignore her." The other was crying hysterically. I looked in the window and she looked at me. I said, "Oh! It's okay...it's going to be okay. Mommy will be here soon." I looked in the car to see if I could assess anything else. It looked like the keys were inside on a console. Maybe she (the mother) locked the keys inside and is going to get help? That must be it. She must be somewhere getting help. By why didn't she just stay with the children so they didn't become afraid?

The baby girl kept wailing. I felt bad. I had Simon with me and was thinking "how is this situation going to play out?" I knew if I called the police they'd do nothing. I'd only been there a few minutes. They wouldn't take me seriously for a much longer time. No one else was on the street. And even if there was I knew the typical French response would be: "it's not my problem." And: "you shouldn't concern yourself with another's problem." Very French. (That isn't a criticism. It's an observation and a fact from knowing a little about French history, culture and personality shaped over centuries.)

Little girl still crying. Oh God what am I going to do?! I can't stand it. The solution is so simple! The parent keeps the children with them at all times and the babies aren't abandoned! Simple. Why couldn't this woman just do that?!

Another minute passed with me trying to calm the baby down by talking to her. Am I making her more upset? "Who is this stranger in a brown hat cooing at me in a foreign language?!" (I was speaking English.) Then a man in a bright green Ralph Lauren "Big Pony" shirt, Mont Blanc wallet and car keys comes sauntering out of one of the clinics, heading towards the car.

I could not believe it. This guy. This Jerk. Sauntering, ambling, strolling over to his car like NOTHING is inside, let alone two breathing live infants! I said, "is this your car? She's been crying." I didn't come out with anything more fluid because I was shocked by the whole situation.

When I got home Emmanuel confirmed what I knew (and should have said): "NEVER LEAVE A CHLD IN THE CAR!"

What pisses me off is this guy was so casual. So unconcerned. His wife will never know he did this. And if it happens often enough, he could be creating some real trauma for his children.

Why do people have children to do things like that? It really makes me upset.

2011-07-18T00:32:00.000-04:00

French drivers are mean. And bad.

I realize I like to complain about the French. It could mean I've become more French myself by doing this. (It is, after all one of their most popular pursuits.) And I realize as I will now begin to complain about French drivers, that there are bad drivers EVERYWHERE. But I am in France. So I will complain about the French drivers--for today.

So. First to bring up is that I have a strong prejudice against French drivers because one ran over my sweet little angel of a dog, Teddy. He was driving the wrong way down a one-way street. Teddy was on his leash, just about to jump up on the curb when this maniac turned the corner fast and didn't even stop till he parked a few meters down the road. He was going fast because he didn't want to get caught. We took him to justice and two years later I am still waiting for the settlement check, which will never replace my precious Teddy. Nothing will.

Hence, my strong prejudice confirmed. French drivers speed down the streets, speed down one-way streets the wrong way (see above), don't slow down when you are crossing the crosswalk, drive too closely to you as they pass you in the crosswalk and don't seem to slow up or add extra caution if there is a baby in a stroller either.

In terms of parking they are the worst. I will say sometimes they are "creative," but it still is classified under "bad parking." For instance:

they nudge other cars backwards or forwards when they park by running into them with their bumper to move them so they have more parking space, or so they can get in (or out) of their space
they park on corners, which are not parking spaces
they park on sidewalks (mostly half-on, half-off--which is another problem (for them) because they are ruining their tires and suspension)
they park in the middle of two streets (see example:
The black car is PARKED. The red car is driving past it on the street. The white car is parked on the corner.

Instances where drivers have driven too close to us are:

the time a woman drove too close to us with the baby in the stroller and Emmanuel hit her car with an umbrella. She didn't stop.
same scenarios but I rapped the car with my knuckles (and flipped the driver off) (one was a woman -- I was in the middle of the crosswalk and she kept driving at us) (one was a man who looked at me with astonishment because apparently no one ever did this to him before)

...To be continued...unfortunately.

2011-07-12T14:58:00.002-04:00

Part-time day care will turn you away or reprimand you if you are not on time (or early) with your child. Our downstairs neighbor has now 2x in the past 3 days harassed us again about the pitter patter of a toddlers feet. I think I'll just ask her if she could move her eyes closer together. Because that's about the same as asking a toddler to tip-toe and not play with his toys. Geesh. Some days...

On the first point I'd like to say this: Children are not adults. Children are not robots. As much as it's recommended they have a schedule (or routine), of which I am a big advocate, I cannot control if my son will sleep 1 1/2 hours, 2, 2 1/2, hours or even 3 hours for his nap. I am of the mind-set that if he needs the sleep, I will let him sleep. After said nap, sometimes he's a finicky eater. Sometimes he takes a long time to get started to eat. Am I supposed to wake my child up from his nap, not feed him lunch if he doesn't eat in the time alloted, not change his diaper and RACE down the street for 10 minutes, wait for a bus whose schedule I definitely do not have control over, and then run another 5 mintues just to get my son to the part-time day-care on time?

2011-05-10T17:53:00.000-04:00

Cocktails with Courtney ~ Paris debut was terrific. We had a great turnout and lots of energy to carry us through for the next one! Coming up May 25, 2011.

2011-04-18T10:38:00.000-04:00

Nice parking job, dude! He's in the middle of two streets!! (Red car was passing in the street as I snapped the photo.)

2011-04-18T10:33:00.000-04:00

My baby boy - he loves colorful socks and he chose this hat to wear today. He's a stylish one!

2011-04-12T07:54:00.001-04:00

Bursting Forth

It was in the high 70s over the weekend but now it's apparently going down to the 20s for the rest of the week. A Spring in Paris!

Meanwhile, I'm hearing how the startup technology scene is exploding in New York City. And at the same time I'm seeing how much is bubbling up here in Paris as well. Events and recaps coming soon!

2011-04-03T07:50:00.000-04:00

I Saw The Light.

Today in church the sermon was about the man born blind to whom Jesus gave sight. It was after Jesus rubbed mud in his eyes and then told him to go was in a special sea. (see?) Throughout the sermon, I kept hearing the song "I Saw The Light" by my favorite singer, Hank Williams. Amen!

2011-04-02T17:14:00.000-04:00

Recent French Disappointment.

Standing in line at the Monoprix. The price is 6.80. I put down a 10 euro bill and begin counting out my .80 centimes. This isn't what the cashier wants, however, and takes my ten, gives me change and refuses my .80 centimes. &*(^%$! What the heck. I can't begin to explain how upsetting it is to deal with. If you want to give a cashier change, start with the coins and THEN put the bill down. I've done it in the past. Should've learned from my lesson.

2011-03-31T17:23:00.000-04:00

Don't ask when you're getting paid.

Apparently if you are an Independent worker, and after you have presented your bill to your employer, it is not appropriate French behavior (another "code") to ask when you could expect to be paid. You must just wait until they decide they will pay you. It could be a day, a week, or two weeks. And if no money shows up? I guess you have to wait until you can meet with them again to politely inquire.

* This is how it's working with my husband's employer anyway. Perhaps it isn't like this with every company. But this has been my experience with them. This is very frustrating and makes it pretty difficult to budget, plan and allot expenses.

2011-03-16T04:14:00.001-04:00

JAPAN.

It is horrifying to watch the repercussions unfold and I wish to express my deepest sympathies to the victims and their families of the earthquake and Tsunami in Japan.

I hope that the relief efforts are swift and life can resume there as quickly as possible.

I encourage you to join me in making a donation (to the International Red Cross) in sympathy and solidarity with them.

2011-03-14T17:55:00.000-04:00

Spring Is Springing.

Today I not only noticed some buds on the flowering trees, but I could smell their fragrance as well. It gave me that "Spring is coming" sense of Hope that only fragrant trees, a temperate breeze and some blue sky can. It was a welcome relief after a rough winter with a sick baby (since November with one virus after another) and my own sinus infection...not to mention no time out of Paris for vacation. We haven't left since...hmmm...summer. Gasp! No wonder I'm grumpy.

I also, in a burst of renewed enthusiasm after meeting Nathalie Ohana - the original OMGmother, I am considering starting up the famous "Cocktails with Courtney" series once again. Why not, I say? Why not, indeed?!

Stay tuned, dear loyal readers, stay tuned...

2010-12-02T17:14:00.000-05:00

Don't forget to say "Thank you" and "Good-bye"

I'm at the post office. I want to send a bottle of Calvados to my Great Uncle. I didn't realize you can't ship liquor to the United States. I present my wrapped bottle to the clerk and ask for a carton to ship to the US.

Clerk: "What is it?" (in French)
Me: "Wine" (In French). (I lie because I figure since wine is like water here maybe that is more permissible than alcohol.)
Clerk: "No liquor to the United States."
Me: "What? Really?"
Clerk: "Yes Madame. Look here in the guidebook." (He gets out the big guidebook with all the shipping rules to every country. Flips to "Etats-Unis" and puts his big fat finger on "No liquor to be shipped to the United States" section.
Me: (Annoyed and aggravated. Well, what else can I do? Nothing. No point of sticking around and discussing this or arguing or anything. So I take my bottle, turn and go, which, by the way would be an acceptable New York response.)
Clerk: (Annoyed and aggravated that I didn't adhere to French "codes" begins to "call" me upon it.) "Au Revoir Madame! Have a good day Madame! Thank you Madame! Au Revoir!!!!"
Me: (Realizing I've "broken" a French code of conduct, annoyed at this and annoyed that the clerk is trying to shame me...) "Au Revoir!!!!" (without turning around as I am exiting the building).

2010-06-26T16:02:00.000-04:00

Cheese!

Living in the land of cheese, I'm a relative late-comer to indulging in the world of fermented milk. I have not tried many cheese to date either. But I am beginning. And here are the results:

Mont D'Or - :) :) :) :) I like it. Soft, creamy
Reblechon: - :) :) :) :) ditto
Tome de Savoie - :) :) :) :) ditto. nice.
Conte - not my favorite, but Teddy's favorite! He ate his way through a big slice of this before my mother-in-law could serve it.

St. Nectaire - :) :) :) :) Love it. creamy.
Emmental de Savoie - haven't tried yet.
St. Marcellin - :) not my favorite, but okay. A bit like Brie.
Tomme Crayeuse - :) :) :) :) :) This is my new favorite! Oh so luscious and creamy and delicious!

Botox Limits Emotions, Scientists Say

2010-06-23T13:01:00.000-04:00

Botox Limits Emotions, Scientists Say

Interesting report. It obviously didn't affect my ex, who got secret botox shots before we got married. He told me he had to see an "eye doctor." I was told to wait in the car. I thought that was strange so I wandered into the waiting room of this "doctor." It looked like a spa! I was amazed if this was supposed to be an eye doctors office. I told the receptionist I was waiting for my fiance. Then I looked around and saw the Price List for the spa treatments, including botox. At first I waited inside, reading a magazine. Then I thought, if he didn't want me to know, I didn't want to embarrass him. Gee, I was naive and nice then. So I went to wait back in the car. I confronted him saying it didn't look like an ordinary eye doctor's office and he confessed. Either way, his raging at me continued during the engagement, wedding, honeymoon and the four weeks of marriage that I stayed with him.

2010-06-23T12:55:00.000-04:00

More Gypsies - Trying to Catch Me!

On my way to a playgroup for Simon (well, a State-sponsored play-area for children up to 4 yrs. old), I walked past Gypsy-Central. There was a woman with a toddler, sleeping on her lap. (How do they get those kids to sleep and lounge all day long?) There was an old woman with a young boy, just standing on the sidewalk, not far from the first set. When they both saw me they began their refrain-of-sorrow.

Then, at the corner, a bunch of children ran up to me and waved money saying, in French, "You dropped this! Here! Your money!" They were waving 20 and 10 euro bills at me. I thought, "what? 20 euros? I dropped that? But my wallet's inside my bag and I never took it out! Gee, that's a lotta money waving around down there..."

I looked at them stony faced and just said, "that's not my money." (Should I take it and say "thank you?!") Then I remembered one of the classic Gypsy tricks and grabbed my bag to make sure it was still closed. Safe. Wallet's still inside. When they realized I wasn't going for this trick, they ran down the street waving their money screaming, "it's the man on the scooter! Get him!"

2010-06-14T16:30:00.001-04:00

The Smokiest City

I am sure in the scheme of things Paris is not the smokiest or most polluted city in Europe. To this non-smoker however, I feel as if I am constantly waving away cigarette smoke and huffing out sooty breaths from buses and metros. Perhaps I am more sensitive to this because Paris is inland, and is in a rut. Seriously. According to BlurtIt The elevation of Paris, France is a mere 129 meters, or 423 feet. Paris lies in a depression. (No kidding) "It gets very little wind to move the air around and can be cold and damp in the winter and extremely hot and humid in the summer. There are many grey days when the smog and low clouds just sit there."

2010-06-12T11:56:00.002-04:00

Thumbs Down for H.A.N.D!

We were hoping to bite into some savory juicy burgers "Americain" at H.A.N.D. (Have A Nice Day) in Paris. But we were all disappointed. The burgers were mediocre, there was hardly any cheese on the cheese-burgers, the cokes were flat, the onion rings looked like they were frozen Oreida, the milk shakes were watery and my strawberry cupcake tasted like nothing. There was no service to speak of, they didn't bring enough water and we were there for three hours. Man! When it rains, it pours--and it poured all week in Paris, so I guess we topped off the week in a deluge of disappointment! Mince alors!

The NY Times seemed to think it was great though: http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/12/07/a-hamburger-in-paris/

This place is being touted as part of the New Brooklyn in Paris, the "Best Burgers in Paris, " "Vrai NY in Paris." I beg to differ!

2010-05-28T07:50:00.000-04:00

French Mothers

I'm not in agreement with how French mothers operate. And yet, their children seem to have a devotion not seen in the US. American moms seem to be more leniant, wanting to be their child's friend...and it doesn't seem like there is the same loyalty for all that "friendship." I guess the lesson is that children want and need to be parented. Perhaps that means discipline, which has gotten softer in the US.

However: I saw this poor little girl walking on the sidewalk with her mother the other day. The little girl tripped and fell on her hands and knees. The mother dragged her up and said, "mais, qu'est-ce que t'arrives?" which basically means, "now, what did you do that for?" I felt so sad for the little girl. It wasn't her fault she tripped and fell. So instead of helping her up, brushing her off and saying, "are you okay?" her mother blamed and yelled at her. :((( BIG FROWNY!

Another time I saw a mother grab her young son (10-years old?) by the ear and drag him along down the sidewalk. :((( BIG FROWNY!!!

2010-05-27T05:05:00.005-04:00

Gypsies

I find the gypsies in Paris fascinating. Before I moved here I would have looked away, if I saw them, in the past because I felt sad about their situation. Now, it just fascinates me. In college I heard the definition of "grotesque" as "that which fascinates and repels." Here, on "The Victorian Web.org" it is defined as that which is outside our reality. "We are strongly affected and terrified because it is our world which ceases to be reliable, and we feel that we would be unable to live in this changed world. The grotesque instills fear of life rather than death."

To me, the gypsies represent this definition of grotesque--especially the "mothers" with their "children" and the young teenage girls. I would not assume that it is the actual mother and birth child together. It could be their sister's or friend's.

One woman is usually stationed by the ritzy hotels the Prince de Gaulles and George V on Ave George V. (pronounced George Sank because the "V" is a "5") A few days ago I saw her in her usual spot but she was leaning on her arm and it was shaking violently. I wondered if this was an actual medical development, or if this was a new dramatic show, one of her "tricks," if you will. I didn't ask.

There also are the girls who dress up as Egyptian Mummies and stand or sit still for hours and hours, even in the hottest part of the summer. How can they do that? I couldn't suffer it.

One time I saw a boy of about eight years old, in the lap of his "mother." Obviously, going to school wasn't a big priority.

Of course, there are also the young teenage girls. These make me the saddest. They roam the metros in groups of two or three. They wait for crowds in the train and jump in at the last moment to grab what they can before escaping the closing doors. What really breaks my heart though is that I've heard if these poor girls go home empty-handed, they are raped. This, and just submitting a child to endless days of petty thievery, never knowing innocence and joy and laughter and warm embracing love and nurturing, is so tragic.

Sometimes girls, or boys, will just grab something (like a cellphone or purse) from a person at the door just as it is closing--forever leaving any possibility of capture.

Speaking of capture. If any one (or several) of these street urchins are caught, they are let go at the end of the day because French law prohibits holding minors. They're back out on the street again the next day.

Perhaps they go "home" to the grassy knolls on the A14 highway heading out of Paris. Sometimes I've seen them as we head out to the airport. Usually situated near the underpass of a bridge, there are sizable camps for these nomadic thieves.

What is also fascinating is that I know these tribes are an historical part of Parisian history. We see them in almost all theatrical works, like Les Miserables and across the Channel in Dickens' works. We don't see types like these in New York or American cities. The history and generational centuries of their existence and their role here is timeless. And I don't mean that in a romantic sense.

I am sure there are professional studies and writings on the case of these gypsies, which apparently are usually Romanian. The French, in fact, refer to them as "romani," but that is pejorative. Perhaps this post seems pejorative, but well, these are just my observations.

UPDATE:
Tonight (May 27, 2010) I saw a gypsy family on the subway. They looked like they were heading home after their day of "work." The mother had a cane but was walking normally. The little girl had big round dangly earrings, just like you would imagine a stereotypical old-style gypsy to have. They all looked worn out and beaten from the day, and life.

Then, on another train (same night: 5/27/2010), I saw about five young girls on the platform of the metro. They looked to be less than 13-years old with the youngest looking about eight. They waited for the rush-hour train to pull in, they tried to board the last car and then at the last minute stepped out. I wonder--is someone less a watch? a wallet? a phone? They looked like they didn't get anything though, because they stayed on the platform looking forlorn. They looked like they knew they had to get "one more score" before they could go back and present their findings and receive either their reward (dinner?) or punishment (I shudder to think of it). It's really so sad.

2010-05-25T10:27:00.004-04:00

French Dog Walking

Today I saw an older woman walking her poodle. She had him on a short leash. (typical of the French. He stopped to try and pee, but she wasn't paying attention to him so he got dragged on 3 legs as he was trying to mark his spot. It annoys me that the French don't pay attention to their dogs when walking, dragging them on short leashes, never minding the dog and the fact that this is "their" walk--their change to pee, to get exercise, to be in the world. It's so typical...
Last year we saw a woman saying "lâche!, lâche! lâche!, lâche!, lâche!, lâche!" (let go!) as she yanked her dog by the leash, pulling him up off the ground with each forceful yank. The poor little dog just had a little something (leaf? stick?) in his mouth. But instead of bending down to try and get it out of his mouth with her hand, she pulled him up by his neck, which also made it impossible for the poor little bugger to actually release the object!

Perhaps it's a good figurative comment on the French character as well -- keeping dogs on a short leash. Actually they are either on a short leash, or off leash, which is yet another good analogy for the French.